Importing
Import paperwork: the list you need at the border
8 min read
An import rarely fails on the mechanics and regularly on a sheet of paper somebody assumed was in the glovebox. This list orders the documents by the stage at which they are asked for, because that is the only order in which they are any use.
Why a missing page costs more than a missing part
A broken exhaust costs a workshop appointment. A missing document costs weeks, because it has to be issued by a body that neither knows nor shares your urgency, and because in the meantime everything built on it stands still. That is the whole reason why on an import the paperwork is checked before the mechanics.
Then there is the chain effect. Almost every stage asks for a document produced by the one before: customs wants the purchase contract, the registration authority wants the customs confirmation, the insurer wants the chassis number from the vehicle papers. Break the chain at one point and everything after it stops.
So this piece does not open with a tick-box list but with a sequence. What you obtain before the purchase costs a phone call; what you obtain afterwards costs weeks.
Before the purchase: the papers to have sent to you
Three documents decide whether the import is an administrative matter or a project, and all three can be requested as photographs before you set off. A seller who will not or cannot send them either does not have them or does not want you reading them — either way that is information.
Look at the photographs properly rather than just ticking off that they exist. The chassis number has to be the same on all three, and the name on the registration certificate has to be the seller's — a glance in both cases, and it saves the whole rest of this list.
- The certificate of conformity, called the COC across Europe. Its absence is the one paperwork problem that visibly changes what an import costs.
- The registration certificate — in Germany parts I and II. Check that both exist and that the name on them is the seller's.
- The latest periodic inspection report, with its date. It is part of what decides whether you get plates for the transfer at all.
At the handover: what goes with you and what stays
At the handover more than the car changes hands, and what you forget there you will not recover across a border. So the handover belongs at a time when both sides are unhurried, not at the end of a long drive at half past seven in the evening.
Go through the list out loud before you set off. It is inelegant and takes two minutes, and it is the difference between a spare key in your hand and a spare key in a drawer three hundred kilometres away.
- The signed contract in two copies, with chassis number, mileage, date, time and full details of both parties.
- The original vehicle papers. Nobody accepts copies at the border.
- The deregistration certificate, or the record that the plates have been invalidated.
- Service book, invoices for the last major work and every key — irrelevant to the authorities, worth several hundred on resale.
- Proof of payment. Moments later it is the document that evidences the car's value.
- Photographs of the condition at handover, with the odometer visible. They take two minutes and settle any later argument about transport damage.
On the road: the folder on the passenger seat
During the transfer the car is in an unusual state: paid for, deregistered where it was sold and not yet registered at home. Checks are more frequent in that situation than otherwise, and the answer is a folder you can hand over in one go.
That includes the registration document for the transfer plates and the insurance confirmation listing the states covered. That confirmation is the paper actually read at a check — not the plate itself.
And one point you only get wrong once: the folder does not live in the boot under the luggage. It stays within reach, and there is a photograph of every sheet on your phone. That does not replace the original, but it saves the afternoon when a page blows away.
At the customs post: what the officer wants to see
This stage disappears when start and finish are both inside the single market. Where the route leads into a state outside it — for the EU that includes Switzerland and Liechtenstein — this is where it is decided whether the whole thing takes half an hour or needs a second attempt. What is asked for is whatever the levies are assessed on: value, weight, identity.
Lay the documents out in that order: contract first, then the vehicle papers, then your ID. It sounds trivial and measurably speeds things up, because that is the order in which the officer asks.
- The original purchase contract or invoice, with the price stated and the chassis number on it.
- The foreign vehicle papers, from which weight and technical data can be read.
- Your ID and, if you are importing for someone else, written authority.
- Proof of payment, in case the declared value looks unusually low.
- The certificate of conformity where one exists. It is not always asked for here and saves a great deal at the next stage.
- The transport invoice if the car was not driven — freight costs up to the border form part of the assessment.
At the registration authority at home
The last stage is also where an incomplete set of papers is dearest: the appointment is not half completed, it does not happen, and the next one is weeks away depending on the authority and the season. The exact list differs between states; the points below appear everywhere.
Call two days before and have the list for your case read out to you. Authorities do this readily, and the list on the phone is more accurate than any general enumeration — including this one.
- Proof that the import is settled — in Switzerland the BAZG assessment decision, in other states its equivalent.
- Proof of any levy the destination state attaches to first registration, where one exists.
- The certificate of conformity, or the expert report that stands in for it.
- The technical inspection report from the destination country. A foreign test sticker does not replace it, however recent.
- Proof of third-party insurance — transmitted electronically in some states, presented on paper in others.
- Your ID and proof of residence, because that decides which authority is competent.
Originals, copies, translations
The basic rule is simple: vehicle papers and official certificates are required as originals, and contracts and receipts almost always too. Authorities retain some originals — the foreign registration certificate often goes into the file at registration and does not come back. So scan every sheet into your own records before you hand it over.
Translations are asked for less often than most people fear, because the certificate of conformity uses the same field numbering across Europe and is therefore readable without the language. For a contract in a language the authority does not work in, a certified translation may be needed. Ask beforehand rather than paying for one on spec.
What to do when a document is missing
The first question is always: was the document lost, or did it never exist? A lost certificate of conformity is reordered from the manufacturer; one that never existed can only be replaced by an individual approval. It is similar with the registration certificate: a loss is reported to the issuing authority and a replacement applied for — which takes time and is the seller's problem, not yours.
The practical consequence follows: the document is obtained before you pay, and the seller obtains it. Afterwards you have no leverage, and the authority in the country of sale will not deal any faster with you as a new owner from abroad.
Where a missing document cannot be obtained, renegotiating the price is what is left. It should cover the full effort that follows — expert report, waiting time, possible modifications. A small discount for a missing document is not a concession but a bill somebody else ends up paying.
The folder you are left with
When everything is done, a stack of paper is left that looks as though it has served its purpose. It has not yet. An imported car gets asked about its origins when it is sold on, and the answer “came from abroad, all fine” is worth less to a buyer than a folder in which that can be read.
So keep the purchase contract, the deregistration certificate, the import papers, the inspection report and every invoice together — ideally where the service book lives. It is the same thinking as with the service book: the evidence is worth more at sale than keeping it costs.