Sell your car privately
Selling privately usually gets you more for the car than trading it in — but you have to advertise it, answer enquiries and organise the handover yourself. This page goes through the steps in order. The first three listings cost nothing, and no commission is charged on the sale price: what you negotiate is what you keep.
What to look at
Paperwork first: registration document, service book, inspection report and every key. Presenting them together at the viewing puts you in a stronger negotiating position.
A realistic price sells faster than a negotiating cushion. Look at what comparable cars of similar age and mileage actually cost.
Eight to twelve photos in daylight, all round the outside and inside. Photograph the flaws too — it saves discussion at the viewing and protects you later.
Hold the viewing in a public place in daylight, not in the evening outside your garage. For a test drive, ask to see the licence and go along.
A written contract with the clause “sold as seen, all warranty excluded”. As a private seller you may exclude warranty — a dealer may not.
Money before keys. Count cash at the bank or wait for the credit to land — not for a payment receipt, which can be forged.
Common questions
- What does a listing cost for a private seller?
- The first three listings are free and stay free. If you offer more than three cars at once, the Plus plan carries ten listings; beyond that the commercial plans begin.
- Do I have to give a warranty as a private seller?
- No. Between private individuals the warranty may be excluded in the contract. That does not cover defects you deliberately conceal — known damage belongs in the listing and in the contract.
- How do I spot a dubious buyer?
- Typical signs: they want to buy unseen, offer more than you asked, push for payment through an escrow service they propose themselves, or want to arrange transport you are to pay for in advance. In all four cases: do not engage.